A delicious day in Niagara

Niagara’s best cherries are in!

When a farmer calls, I go running like a puppy. Sue Pohorly, farmer and owner of The Fruit Shack in the Village of Virgil called, “the cherries are in”.

On the Pohorly farm there are two giant hoop rows and inside are beautiful cherry trees that bear the big, black, juicy, ultra-sweet cherries at farmers in Niagara don’t grow because they split with the least amount of rain. But the Pohorly’s protect them with their own hoop house so they’re guaranteed to be big and beautiful.

I went running down and sure enough they were on the counter; I wasn’t the only one there for the cherries, the line up was out the door!

The Good Shepherd is back!

As I stood in line I saw freezers stocked with frozen meat; chicken from the Poultry Barn in St Jacobs and beef from Gerber Meats – this is the meat from Franz and Denise Gerber formerly of the Good Shepherd! If you’re a Niagara foodie, The Good Shepherd will need no explaining.

It’s as close as we’re going to get to the Good Shepherd, Sue and Frank Pohorly were standing in the room talking to customers and explaining the quality of their chicken and meat products. It’s barbecue season I thought as I put some incredible looking tenderloin in my basket along with some bone-in chicken breast (I think boneless is next to flavourless!), packed up my cherries and headed home – window open of course, so I could spit my pits.

Once home I began unpacking and found a little brown bag. Sue is known for her amazing butter tarts and inside the brown bag were two of them. Wow, I went outside under the shade of the large maple tree and sat down. I was ready. I sunk my teeth into the overly large tart and the insides oozed out. There were soft raisins, yummy pecans and caramelized bits around to top of the flaky crust. These are the best, but you’ll need to get to The Fruit Shack before noon because there’s never any left after that.

How are you enjoying your summer?

Excited about Sourdough!

Went to a bread and wine tasting at The Old Mill Inn yesterday staged by Puratos. If you’ve never heard of this company before it’s because Puratos make bread ingredients and sellw them to the baking industry. Today we were to sample breads made from various sourdough starters. If you’ve ever thought sourdough was all the same, I’m about to introduce you to a world of variances and textures of sourdough bread to get excited about.

First tasting was a crusty roll made with Sapore Tosca. A typical Italian durm wheat sourdough made from fine hard semolina. This sourdough lends a nutty, slightly malted, strong wheat taste. The wine was the Niagara College Sauvignon Blanc. The lightness of the bread and wine went beautifully together. In fact all the wines were from Niagara College, it seems that the College is working with Puratos in market research of their products.

I noticed Puratos make about a dozen sourdough starters, some originate from small villages in Europe and they all produce bread with various resulting flavours just as wine yeasts all lend different flavours to wine.

Second tasting was Sapore Traviata,

a typical French sourdough with a subtle nose of rye, nuts and raisins that contribute to the milk and fine acidic flavour. The wine was the Dean’s List Pinot Noir. The cooked cherry, vanilla and toasty flavours of the wine stood up well to the hardiness of this sourdough.

Third bread was my favourite, a San Francisco sourdough produced with authentic sanfranciscensis culture. The assertive sour possesses a sharp acidity with undertones of sour cream and white button mushrooms. It was paired with a fruit forward and lush Meritage. Even though the San Francisco sourdough gave the impression of being a lightweight, it actually had a full weight of sour cream and a rich, chewy, often times sweetish texture. They paired beautifully together.

There is a method of tasting bread just as there is with wine. First you tap on it, check the colour of the bread and then the crumbs. Next is to blow on it and take a deep smell. Now break it open and stick your nose in to smell the soft, lush bread – oh yum! Now dive in with some freshly turned, whole milk butter – nothing but the best will do. Ok, that last part wasn’t encouraged, but sometimes you just can’t resist!

You can’t tell which sourdough started your neighbourhood baker uses or if they even use Puratos products, so my best advise is to get out there and try all the sourdough breads you can find and begin tasting the differences. Your favourite is out there for you to discover!

In Defence of Local Food

I am beyond concern now. It’s another dark day for Niagara’s food scene. If you’re a regular at the Good Shepherd in Vineland you know more than anyone, it’s about more than buying meat. Franz and Denise Gerber are Mennonite farmers who converted their barn into a retail space so customers like you and I can buy good, organic, safe meat.

In their coolers you’ll find various cuts of beef, pork and chicken. From these animals they also make cutlets, pies, rolls, pepperettes, kielbasa, sausages and cheese. There are lamb roaming in the pasture and turkeys to be ordered for holiday seasons.

When you arrive at the Good Shepherd, Franz and Denise know you by name – a remarkable feat considering the abundance of loyal customers they have. You can sit at the table (a welcoming site when you arrive), or shop the coolers and know that when something comes off the stove, it will be offered to you.

Some say it’s good marketing to have your customers taste your products, but to know Franz and Denise is to know that it’s about taking care of their friends. At the Good Shepherd they encourage you to eat as much as you want and stay as long as you like, believing it’s the least they can do to make your life a little bit better.

For those of you who don't know what I'm talking about, it's about a connection to our food. It's about knowing and trusting people to provide good quality safe food. All of the animals are raised naturally, butchered carefully and sold lovingly. The meat is free of chemicals, hormones, nitrates or any unnatural ingredients. The fact that Denise and Franz are great people is just a bonus.

So why is it a dark day you ask? Because on May 1, the Good Shepherd is closing its doors – and it’s not by choice. It’s a complicated story but I think it’s safe to say our government regulations have become so blind, restrictive, obscure and expensive that they felt closing was the only option.

For a couple who’ve spent their entire business life cultivating loyalty and trust, this decision is a sad and painful one for them. For thousands of current customers and countless future customers, it means we are loosing our choice. In Niagara we cannot buy this great food any longer - this is a crisis.

We are loosing our right to shop and buy what we want and where we want – where will it end? Being stripped of our local food choices is not what safe food is all about and we need to send a message that we don’t like it. Enough is enough!

Let’s all dress in black and meet at the Good Shepherd on May 1. Black to represent the death of one more of our food choices. If you’re with me on this one, email back!

The Flavours of Greece on a Plate and in a Glass

Treadwell’s in Port Dalhousie does regional cuisine superbly! So when they were approached by the Kolonaki Group of Toronto and WineSavvy Consultants of Niagara to organize a special (trade only) Greek wine tasting, it was way over the top in flavour and authenticity. It became a delicious, palate lead journey to Greece.

To say Greece is the new up and coming wine region is not quite accurate. Greece has been producing wines like these for a few decades now, but without the giant marketing budgets other wine growing regions of the world have, they become the treasures of those in the know. For those of us who love Greece and its food and wine culture, these are the wines we surprise our friends with and these are the wines we enjoy at restaurants the likes of Treadwells who know better than any, how to create amazing culinary experiences that we all yearn for.

Tselepos Amalia Brut (100% Moschofilero, $24.95, available through *The Kolonaki Group)

First Course

Steamed PEI Mussels with Fennel Pollen Cream and Spring Chives

Ser

ved with 2008 Antonopoulos Adoli Ghis ($21.95, blend of Lagorthi, chardonnay, Roditis Alepou, available through *The Kolonaki Group)

Second Course

Grilled Mackerel with Oven Dried Tomatoes and Poached Free Range Egg

2008 Sigalas Santorini ($21.95, VQPRD Santorini, 100% Assyrtiko, available through LCBO Vintages starting May 1)

2003 Sigalas Santorini ($34.95, VQPRD Santorini, 100% Assyrtiko, available through *The Kolonaki Group)

Third Course

Steak Tartar with Potato Chips

2007 Skouras St George Nemea ($16.95, VQPRD Nemea, 100% Agiorgitiko (St George), available in LCBO Vintages)

2005 Estate Papaioannau Nemea ($19.95, VQPRD Nemea, 100% Agiorgitiko (St George), available in LCBO Vintages Sept 18)

Fourth Course

Roasted Belly of Pork with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine Reduction

2004 Boutari Grand Reserve Naoussa ($17.95, VQPDR Naoussa, 100% Xinomavro, available through *The Kolonaki Group)

207 Kir Yianni Ramnista Xinomavro ($19.95, VQPDR Naoussa, 100% Xinomavro, available through LCBO Vintages Oct 16)

Fifth Course

Rosemary Crème Brulee with Lemon Sorbet

2008 Muscat of Limnos ($11.95, Appellation Limnos, 100% Muscat of Alexandria, available through LCBO Vintages)

2003 Sigalas Vinsanto ($44.95, 375 mL, VQPRD Santorini, 75% Assyrtiko/25% Aidani, available through *The Kolonaki Group)

* Kolonaki Group, Steve Kriaris

www.kolonakigroup.com

steve.kriaris@kolonakigroup.com

WineSavvy Consultants, Evan Saviolidis

www.winesavvy.ca

Facebook- WineSavvy Consultants

Twitter- Evanwinesavvy

Feasting on the Best in the World

I love openings, especially of great food shops! And he did it just for you and me. Lino Collevecchio is owner of Woodland Imports, an import company that brings in the most exquisite food products from around the world – and he’s just opened up his warehouse to retail sales.

Born and raised in St. Catharines, Collevecchio became a chef at George Brown College, worked in some of the best kitchens around the world and opened Woodland 15 years ago in Ancaster. Just last year he moved his business to Niagara and this past weekend (April 11, 2010), launched his retail division with a gastronomic opening that has been unmatched to date.

Woodlands supplies the best retailers in Canada from Whole Foods, Bruno’s, Pusateri’s and other like them. He flies in fresh cheese every 2 weeks and today, he opened most of them to try. My favourite by far was the Italian Rochetta ($20), an earthy, creamy, decadently rich cheese. The irresistible Ribiola ($15) is a blend of sheep and cows milk, triple cream and how could it not be decadent! He has fresh Italian Buffalo Mozzarella ($12) and Vento D’Estate, a sheep milk cheese aged in grass.

Along with the cheese, he also flies in fresh made ravioli in flavours of Arugula and Ricotta, Buffalo Mozzarella and Aged Asiago cheese, Pumpkin and the fourth is Porcini ($7).

Collevecchio still travels the world but now he’s not cooking, now he’s looking for amazing products to bring back to Canada. He inspects every producer he represents – what a job!

There was Chianti salami, one made with Rose and another with Pinot Grigio ($8). You can find Pingue meats there and an impressive collection of balsamic vinegars that are priced from $7 all the way up to $300 for the 100-year old balsamic.

Cases of Italian tomatoes ($22), fresh baguettes ($3), alborio rice ($4) and an amazing Calasparra rice from Spain ($8). One shelf held a collection of salts and another some juice; 100% organic pomegranate juice or black mulberry ($9). I munched on some sweet potato chips from New Brunswick ($4.50 for a large bag!) and mixed root vegetable chips ($3).

I found truffles, whole, chopped and sauced and the best collection of olive oil from bottles that ranged from $15 to $90 (great gift!). In between there are gourmet products that range from fig balsamic, marinated artichokes, black olive paste, dried porcini and Niagara’s Ice Syrup.

Woodland Imports, Gourmet Food Specialists is on 330 Vansicle Road in St Catharines and it’s only open Saturday and Sunday

from 11 to 3. It’s too bad you missed the feast of the best in the world, but drop in the shop - it’s a feast for the eyes!

The Season Has Begun

It’s Niagara’s first agricultural crop of the season. Harvesting maple syrup starts around mid February and depending on the weather, lasts until the end of March.

“We need 3 days above freezing to get the sap running”, explains Ann Bering of White Meadows Farm in beautiful Effingham. The freezing and thawing temperatures starts and stops the sap many times.

Maple syrup starts as a sticky sap from the insides of a maple tree and is then transformed into a lusciously sweet nectar that is irresistible to all who try it. White Meadows Farm is in full maple syrup swing right now. You can visit the farm every Saturday and Sunday (holidays as well) from 8:30 am to 4 pm from now until mid April. Bring the kids for a wagon tour of the sugar bush and see how the trees are tapped, learn how its boiled down into maple syrup and end in the Pancake House with a full pancake breakfast complete with loads of sweet, fresh maple syrup.

throughout Niagara more chefs are using maple syrup in their dishes because it's a more complex sugar with more depth of flavour and has more nutrition than regular cane sugar.

White Meadow offers different grades of maple syrup; light, medium, amber and dark. The different grades have more to do with the time of the season than it has to do with processing. Traditionally, at the beginning of the season the sap is light and as the season progresses, the sap gets darker and richer. You'll find all four grades of maple syrup in The Sugar Shack, the on-farm retail shop. The dark syrup is almost black and the taste is reminiscent of molasses, but not as thick as molasses. The Sugar Shack is the only place you’ll find this rare and unique maple syrup.

If you’re looking to eat local this winter and you’re thinking nothing is happening in Niagara in February, think again. Not only is the sugar bush in full harvest, but White Meadow is also a cattle farm offering frozen beef in boxes with mixed cuts; ground hamburger, wieners, hamburger patties and pepperettes.

There’s even farm made baked beans (Ann’s own secret recipe!) and popping corn. From just over 2-acres of popping corn planted last summer, the Berings have more than 5 tons of popping corn in storage, ready to test, package and sell. Their popular maple kettle corn is made from their very own popping corn.

Inside The Sugar Shack you’ll also find the Berings famous maple barbecue sauce – perfect to glaze a winter roast or rack of beef ribs. There’s maple salad dressing, maple vinegar, maple mustard and red pepper maple jelly. They blend and mix their own pancake mix in two varieties; Buttermilk and Gluten Free and have a trio of fruit sauces all laced with maple syrup; cranberry, peach and wild blueberry.

They have maple granola, maple sugar candy, maple butter, maple tarts and of course with a barn brimming full of popping corn, you can pick up a big bag of fully popped maple kettle corn.

Get out to White Meadows on the weekends and enjoy the regions first of many harvests to come and don’t forget to bring the kids for some good, wholesome, family, farm and country fun.

Zeppola are here!

In the donut capital of Canada, it’s amazing how little Niagarians know about pastries.

Zeppola are tiny (about 2-inches), fluffy and rolled in granulated sugar. Commonly deep-fried, these dough balls may be filled with custard, cannoli-style cream or a butter-and-honey mixture. Their consistency ranges from light and puffy to bread-like. They’re delicious, addictive and warming.

Zeppola are the pastry of La Festa di San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph's Day, March 19). So from now, through to the patron saint’s day and the Easter weekend, this is the season to find these delicious little pastries.

In Niagara Falls, the famous Criveller Cakes & Pastries (4435 Portage Rd) keeps with tradition, but pastry master Giovanni Priore (the man responsible for all their heavenly pastries) creates his own exquisite versions of zeppola.

Crivelliers Zeppola de St. Giuseppe are baked cream puffs made from choux pastry. The airy little puffballs are filled with Zabaione cream (a frothy cream made by cooking egg yolks with sugar and spiked with marsala). They’re not quite small enough to pop into your mouth so you have to bite it in half; the Zabaione cream oozes over my fingers. The pastry is ultra light with a dreamy, sweet, airiness about it, very moist, light and elegant. As it sweetly floats in my mouth, I try to get it between my teeth and the rich, cream slides across the layers of sugar dusted pastry. Oh yum, ok these are the best zeppola I’ve ever tasted!

I can’t explain how donut hungry Niagarians have missed out on the most decadent, elegant, upscale, delicious pastry donuts in the world, but that just means there are plenty more for those of us who know where to find the best food Niagara has to offer – it’s the season for zeppola, enjoy.